Another Newbie

June 19, 2015, 7:43 am

≫ Next: Transistor 12v Coil Mod

≪ Previous: New Guy

$

0

0

Hello,

My name is Jonathan. I own a John Deere 2010. I've also owned a 1940A.

I have a bunch of years experience keeping these older tractors running, but it doesn't amount to much when something new comes along.

---

Transistor 12v Coil Mod

June 19, 2015, 7:56 am

≫ Next: New member

≪ Previous: Another Newbie

$

0

0

I converted my 1980 MTD 990 16hp Briggs engine to 12v coil ignition. Background information is posted here.
http://www.mytractorforum.com/63-mtd...mtd-990-a.html

The engine starts and runs well. I would like to make it a transistor switched coil. A "points saver" or "transistor assisted ignition". This is kind of old school 60s and 70s technology. The reason is simply to take the "new" current load of up to 9 amps off of the points and fire the coil with a power transistor, using the points as a trigger.

I know the older automotive HEI and TFI modules can be used for this purpose but I would rather play with this and make my own. Researching on the WEB, I have found DIY circuits. I have searched the tractor sites and small engine sites but found only vague and incomplete information.

I found these transistors intended for the specific purpose of driving an ignition coil and ordered a few. The spec sheet is below.
STMicroelectronics NPN 400V Discrete Darlington Transistor NPN | BU931P | STMicroelectronics

Any comments or questions are welcome.

Attached Files

BU931SM1.pdf (56.4 KB)

New member

June 19, 2015, 8:17 am

≫ Next: Here I am...

≪ Previous: Transistor 12v Coil Mod

$

0

0

Hello, I am a new member from Ontario, Canada and look forward to receiving/giving good advice in this forum. thx.

Here I am...

June 19, 2015, 8:22 am

≫ Next: Too MUCH Rain, What Is The Proper Slope For Gutters??

≪ Previous: New member

$

0

0

I like to tinker. Just bought a pretty rough Gravely Promaster 300 that I will be fixing up. Looking to learn a lot here.

:thanku:

Too MUCH Rain, What Is The Proper Slope For Gutters??

June 19, 2015, 8:28 am

≫ Next: JD 2010 Dies Under Load

≪ Previous: Here I am...

$

0

0

OK, I have suffered with the water long enough,,, It is time for gutters.
The coming el Nino says the rest of the summer is gonna be WET!!

I have them on the house, but, (except for one spot) I have not put them on the sheds.

I am not a carpenter, but, rather an information gatherer and doer.

All the discussion about mosquitoes resulting from standing water in gutters, it seems natural to add a slope to the install to insure the water drains,,, :dunno:

BUT, one inch of slope over 20 feet looks WAY wrong. :hide:

What should the slope be?? I am about to do a 57 foot gutter that captures water from a 30 foot metal roof, I would REALLY like the water to go to a drain at one end,,,

I could do two down pipes, but the water run-off would have to be combined with a LOT of trenching,,,

While we are at it,,, that 4 inch pipe I bury to move the water, what slope should it be at??
(NOTE: to get rid of the water, each 4 inch pipe run will be about 60 feet,,,)

Thanks for the help,,,, :fing32:
I would like to get this right, and not suffer with mosquitoes or an improper looking installation!! :swow:

JD 2010 Dies Under Load

June 19, 2015, 8:41 am

≫ Next: Bleeding Hydro Fluid on 1528/1531

≪ Previous: Too MUCH Rain, What Is The Proper Slope For Gutters??

$

0

0

Hi all.

First post, long time tractor hobbyist and grass farmer. I have a JD 2010 I've had for 14 years and I love it. I know, it's the worst tractor ever made by JD, but I must have a good one.

I have a problem that has me stumped.

It runs fine cool. It runs fine hot. But after it warms up, it dies under load.

The problem has been getting progressively worse. The strange thing is -- once you engage the PTO or put it in gear and it starts to die, simply turning the ignition switch seems to eliminate the problem. At least until you let go of the ignition and it dies again or sometimes, runs well again.

I'm sure I'm getting sufficient gas to the carb. I rebuilt the carb last summer and it was working great. I've checked and have spark at the plugs, although I can't check for spark under load for the obvious reasons.

I also have a short video of the symptoms here:

YouTube

YouTube

I made this video for my friend Joel who knows JDs well...

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks,

Jonathan

Bleeding Hydro Fluid on 1528/1531

June 19, 2015, 8:48 am

≫ Next: Bad deal?

≪ Previous: JD 2010 Dies Under Load

$

0

0

So on my journey to doing the fluid in my hydrostatic 1528 the manual mentions bleeding the system after draining. I "think" I found the bleed plug but I'm not sure. Anyone have experience with this?

Attached Thumbnails

   

Bad deal?

June 19, 2015, 9:08 am

≫ Next: I have a john deere question

≪ Previous: Bleeding Hydro Fluid on 1528/1531

$

0

0

Allegedly, the trans/clutches are good and the deck worked great, But motor is "blown", as of last week. 'Regularly maintained'. He said it started ticking, he thought it was bad points, so he replaced, and it still ticks 'real bad'.

Keeping in mind I have an 810 (something (yet to be figured out) potentially wrong with the PTO or trans,) a 50'' belly deck, a 48'' plow (that does not have the directional change lever), and 8123-B, 40' commercial deck, and a 44'' snow cannon that may need spare parts here and there... What do you think it's worth, located in MI.

Attached Thumbnails

       

---

I have a john deere question

June 19, 2015, 9:09 am

≫ Next: new member

≪ Previous: Bad deal?

$

0

0

I have a questions about a engine swap on a john deere x585, which I want to ask the john deere section after I get permission to post there.

new member

June 19, 2015, 9:11 am

≫ Next: 19?62? Simplicity 725 in Vermont

≪ Previous: I have a john deere question

$

0

0

Hello, I'm retired, engineer, noobie to owing some acreage, looking for immediate help fixing or junking my lawnmower.

19?62? Simplicity 725 in Vermont

June 19, 2015, 9:33 am

≫ Next: 8fh11lb carb pics needed and factory adjustments

≪ Previous: new member

$

0

0

Hey all. My father has a 1962 (he believes) simplicity 725. Early 60's simplicity model 725 lawn tractor. It's been repainted black and upgraded to a 10 HP engine rather than the original 7.25 horse power. It runs well and has lots of power. Brake works excellent and will slide rear tire. Rear chains and wheel weights. Just changed the oil. It has a 42 inch plow as well as a three blade 42 inch mower deck that has seen very little use as it was replaced when the original rusted out. Have a cutter bar for it but I don't have the mounting bracket for it. Have the owners manual as well as other info and brochures..

We aren't sure what it's worth, anyone have any idea?

Also, if anyone is interested in it, let me know! It's located in Chelsea, VT. Thanks everyone!

Attached Thumbnails

       

8fh11lb carb pics needed and factory adjustments

June 19, 2015, 9:36 am

≫ Next: John Deere x585

≪ Previous: 19?62? Simplicity 725 in Vermont

$

0

0

Looking to see if anyone can provide pictures of the choke and other linkage areas of the carb on a A series iron horse motor. Pics of all angles/sides are appreciated.

Also factory adjustments on this carb, as well as correct plug and gap.

Thanks,
Chris

John Deere x585

June 19, 2015, 9:42 am

≫ Next: John Deere 265 slows going up hill

≪ Previous: 8fh11lb carb pics needed and factory adjustments

$

0

0

I have a x585 with 600 hours on it, yesterday when I was mowing it started to knock and then broke. Well I got the engine out and torn down this morning and I broke both rods, and ruined the crank and the case.

Now for the fun part of fixing all of it. The engine that is in it is the Kawasaki FD711D-AS02, this is the fuel injected model. As I am sure everyone knows the prices on parts from John Deere are extremely high. I can not find much for the engine that is in it, the Kawasaki engine dealer that I called told me they can not get anything for that engine I would have to go through Deere. Well I have found a replacement engine online that is the FD750 model. This engine seems to have just about the same specs as the current broken one does the main difference is the piston bore. However it is not DFI like the current one.

What I am wondering if anyone has done this swap before? Can I just the old engines throttle body assembly and wiring to bolt on the new engine? Or if anyone might have some other ideas on which way I should go about fixing this. I have not been able to find a used engine or I might just buy that.

Thanks guys.

John Deere 265 slows going up hill

June 19, 2015, 9:47 am

≫ Next: How to: Install electric hour meter on four-stroke engine

≪ Previous: John Deere x585

$

0

0

I have a 265, everything runs good, but when I'm mowing and going up an incline, it slows way down. Does anyone have any idea why it would slow down going up hill, but runs normal on flat or down hill ground. I was thinking that the fluid in the rear end might need to be changed, but I don't know if that would be the cause or not. It probably wouldn't hurt to change the fluid, but I don't know what fluid or how much I would need. If anyone can help I would appreciate it.

How to: Install electric hour meter on four-stroke engine

June 19, 2015, 10:35 am

≫ Next: Peerless/Tecumseh Transaxle acting strange

≪ Previous: John Deere 265 slows going up hill

$

0

0

I install cheap hour-meter My backhoes four-stroke engine, should work ATV etc.

YouTube

YouTube

---

Peerless/Tecumseh Transaxle acting strange

June 19, 2015, 10:42 am

≫ Next: It's summer again.... (shaking head...)

≪ Previous: How to: Install electric hour meter on four-stroke engine

$

0

0

Hello;

I have a Craftsman LTX 1000 with a 6 speed manual Peerless/Techumseh transmission model 206-545c.

It worked fine one day and the next day the gears started behaving strange.
Reverse, neutral, 5th and 6th gear all work fine.
1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th do not engage (behave as if in neutral) unless I balance (and hold) the shifter between the normal shifter positions. If I hold the shifter between the normal shifter positions then 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear work fine. In this case, if I take my hand off the shifter then the tractor in a short time slips out of the gear.

First I checked/adjusted the linkage and the problem remained.

Next I removed the transaxle and used a pair of vice grips to change gears. The problem remained so I knew for sure the problem is not the linkage and something with the transaxle.

I removed the indent ball and spring and again used the vice grips to change gears and then all gears worked fine.

At that point I thought the problem might be a bent shift fork/rod so I opened up the transmission and examined the shift fork/rod. The shift fork uses a "wave" pattern to hold the indent ball in place. I did notice that the crest of the waves for reverse, neutral, 5th, and 6th were higher than the crest of the waves for 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th so my first reaction was that these waves had worn down. The only picture I found of the shift fork was a blurry one at an angle (in the Sears parts site) which seemed to look the same as mine. So my thoughts were that the different wave heights in the shift fork is how it is supposed to be and that it is not worn. But I have not been able to find a good enough picture online to confirm that.

I removed the shift fork and manually moved the shift collar through the gears and again all the gears work fine.

I inspected all the gear teeth and nothing missing or worn in any gear teeth.

I removed the brake/shifter shaft and removed and inspected all gears and the shift keys. In a few drive gears I found 1 or 2 microscopic knicks in the inside of the gear in the slots where the shift keys sit. I also found microscopic knicks on the shift keys. These knicks are very small, I don't know if I could even take a decent picture of them. I would say 0.025 to 0.05 of a millimeter. I am not an expert but this size of knicks don't appear to be big enough to cause the shift keys not to engage the gear.

I put the brake/shifter shaft back together but flipped the drive gears to see if that would make a difference but it did not make a difference.

I didn't take any pictures of the microscopic knicks in the gear slots or shift keys when I had it apart but I can do that if somebody needs to see that.

Is there any other troubleshooting I could try to diagnose the problem. I really don't want to start buying parts (gears, shift keys, etc) without knowing exactly what parts are the problem.

Thanks, Brian

Attached Thumbnails

       

It's summer again.... (shaking head...)

June 19, 2015, 10:47 am

≫ Next: Found some compost...???

≪ Previous: Peerless/Tecumseh Transaxle acting strange

$

0

0

Ugh.

You know how every so often there's just that one little tiny thing that drives ya batty?

A few doors down from me there's a family who just isn't all there. I could go on for hours, but to stay topical, they go through about 10-15 lawnmowers per season, which is fascinating considering their lawn is about the size of three minivans parked in a line.

Not sure exactly why, but somehow they decided that a lawnmower has to sound like a nascar vehicle while being used. They'll drag home some mower, either from the alley or pawn shop, get it running, and somehow add some sort of cable going to the governor. They rev the thing between idle and redline the whole time they mow, holding it at full RPM, bouncing back and forth. I casually mentioned once it may work better if they just left it at idle and mowed that way, but was met with "Nawww, that aint no good for the engine, it dont get no air!"

So I listen to them playing indy 500 race car lawnmower driver until the engine grenades, which is sometimes worth the show. A few days later a new mower rolls up and we hear the pounding and yelling as they tear the old one down, cursing what a piece of junk this one is, and how they keep getting ripped off.

Found some compost...???

June 19, 2015, 10:51 am

≫ Next: New Guy on My Tractor Forum

≪ Previous: It's summer again.... (shaking head...)

$

0

0

The previous owners of our house put a ground level deck on top of the ???concrete patio probably 12-15 years ago. I pulled up a section and there was what I assume is a ton of compost. Leaves from the nearby tress fell in between the 2x4 decking and just sat there. I can shovel it up, but not sure where to use it.

The lumber is pressure treated and rotted in some places, but it being so old, I'm leery of the chemicals used in the pressure treating process. With that in mind, I don't want to use it in my vegetable garden. Would there be any harm in using it in a few areas of the lawn that are low spots to help build it up? Any other suggestions?

New Guy on My Tractor Forum

June 19, 2015, 11:27 am

≫ Next: John Deere 4600 Torque spec on front pivot

≪ Previous: Found some compost...???

$

0

0

Hello out there!

Hi I live in Rama, ON it's situated on a reserve in Ontario Canada. I own a White Outdoor Transmatic Lawn Tractor Models: L-130G, Model Number - 13AA688F590, 13HP/38" 8 SPD Lawn Tractor. I found no such machine. I found a similar machine: 13AM683F190 (LT-15) - White Outdoor Lawn Tractor, 38" Deck (2001). I hope this helps!!!!

John Deere 4600 Torque spec on front pivot

June 19, 2015, 11:32 am

≫ Next: Kioti RX7320PCCR

≪ Previous: New Guy on My Tractor Forum

$

0

0

I have a JD 4600 HST with WFWD. The small bolt on the front of the pivot has worked it's way loose. Can't find it in the service manual so asking here. Does anyone know the proper way and specs to re-torque this small bolt on the front differential?

Img link -> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3L...ew?usp=sharing